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I'm tweaking the action on my most recent completion, and I've noticed that there is essentially no relief on the 2nd through 6th strings between the 12th fret and the nut.

This is a classical, so I don't have a truss rod to loosen. On my previous classical builds, I've just let the string pull account for the relief. This one, though, has a center reinforcement strip of ebony, which is doing a good job of keeping the neck from moving at all. So it looks like I'm gonna have to either file or sand in the relief I need.

I've looked through the books I have on lutherie and repair, and while they all discuss relief, not a one discusses ways of doing it. I'm leaning toward, say 320 grit sandpaper with a sanding block, and then recrowning the frets, but I'd be interested in any feedback you'd care to provide.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

Sounds like to me it would be best to remove the frets and sand the relief into the fretboard, but that would make the slots slightly shallower so you'll have to take that into consideration. I guess sandpaper and a block is the way I'd go after it.

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Tickle your guitar daily, and it'll tickle you back.

High action and call it an exersize guitar Kidding of cource

Michael,
I know some folks here will disagree with me on this BUT here goes anyway...You don't need relief to get good action. In fact I prefer to have my necks as perfectly straight as possible. Relief adds another variable to the overall intonation problem that is inherent anyway. Dan Erlewine's video series on fretting/necks has many details on why Dan tries to get his necks staight as possible. So does Buzz Feiten and some other note worthy intonation pros. It seems to make sense to me that if are going to level your frets and then check them (every three frets) looking for high and low spots why put relief into the neck and then level the frets straight? I set my action at 3-3.5 64ths at the 12th fret with a capo on the first fret.

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Dave Bland

remember...

"If it doesn't play in tune...it's just pretty wood"

i second the general thrust of dave's post.
if it isn't buzzing why are you worried?

Dave and crazyman,

Actually, it is buzzing. Having a perfectly flat fingerboard may work great for steel string guitars, but classical strings move in a much wider arc than steel strings, and without a little bit of relief, they will buzz. Of course, one can raise the action to counteract the buzz -- which is what I've had to do -- but by adding a bit of relief into the fingerboard, the action need not be as high, which helps preserve the intonation, especially at the higher frets.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live

I'd pull the frets, plane in the relief, and refret. It doesn't sound like intonation is an issue, but I find the Byers method works well.

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Josh,

Yeah, that'd be the right way to do it. Helluva job on a 10-string, though.

I've read Byer's article on intonation. Haven't tried it yet. I'm using the Gilbert method and have been pleased with it so far.

Best,

Michael

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Live to Play, Play to Live